Skin cosmetics (Anti-aging products)

Common beauty standards value a youthful look, with a smooth texture and healthy complexion. Blemishes are usually frowned upon and most women are pressured to look attractive regardless of age. The most common problems plaguing many middle-aged females are the problems of aging dark spots and wrinkles. Asians tend to have an earlier onset of aging spots, while Caucasians tend to have wrinkles earlier. This is due to Asians having a thinner stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin) than Caucasians. In addition, Asian skin tends to have better elasticity, making them less susceptible to wrinkle formation. This is due to the thicker dermis and higher ceramide contents of Asian skin. However, Asian skin has a much younger onset of hyperpigmentation and higher acute skin irritation responses.

Melanin production is one of the main drivers of skin pigmentation. Melanin levels determine skin tone and its production mechanism is frequently targeted by most skin whitening products. Its synthesis and deposition are controlled by the main epidermal unit. UV radiation or aging stimulates keratinocytes, which activate the pigmentation of the skin.

Skin whitening products suppress the production of melanin via inhibition of the signal from keratinocytes to activate melanocytes. As such, melanin is unable to be accumulated when transported to the skin surface to appear as dark spots.

There is a large range of anti-aging products, consisting of different types of main ingredients that act on a range of factors that affect skin pigmentation.

The first common form of active ingredient found in skin whitening and anti-aging products is vitamin B3, otherwise known as niacinamide. Niacinamide plays a crucial role in DNA maintenance and repair. It also inhibits melanin transfer and has been shown effective in skin lightening as shown in several high-quality clinical studies. As of currently, niacinamide shows no side effects. In some studies, niacinamide can reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well.

In addition, vitamins C and E are frequently found in anti-aging products. This has to do with photoaging occurring due to the presence of ROS (reactive oxygen species) in the skin. Vitamins C and E serve to reduce ROS in living skin and improve the protection of the skin, preventing the skin from damage from UVA radiation. However, vitamin C is known to be very unstable and easily oxidized when exposed to air and sunlight, therefore you should look out for products containing AA2G or Stay-C 50, which are vitamin C derivatives that are longer-lasting.

Plankton extracts and marine ingredients may also be found in skin products such as KIEHL’S ultra facial cream. The plankton extracts (Antarctican containing glycoprotein extremophile strain Pseudoalteromonas antarctica NF3) have cryoprotective properties that help with restructuring and regenerating the skin to protect it from cold weather and to support a firmer and more youthful complexion. This is done by helping the skin retain water, and preventing skin dryness. It can also protect the skin from cold weather. It increases collagen and elastin, helping to restructure the skin and reduce wrinkles, especially on the forehead and around the eyes.

Lastly, peptide ingredients are of large importance to antiaging products. This is because some of them are essential to altering muscle contraction in the face, preventing the formation of wrinkles. For example, the ARGIRELINE peptide is commonly used to modulate the formation of the SNARE complex by competing with SNAP-25 within the body to form a complex, thus destabilizing it and reducing muscle contraction. Such a mechanism will allow for muscle relaxation. A less safe alternative will be botulinum toxin, more commonly known as botox, which breaks the SNARE complex formation entirely, resulting in a muscle paralysis effect.

There are a variety of skin products available in the market, and it is important to choose the most suitable type based on your needs. A caution, however, is that more products do not necessarily translate to better and stronger effects. Do consult your dermatologist if you have any pressing or concerning issues regarding your skin. Stay healthy and happy!

P.S: For this blog post, I have included some links to various web pages where you can find out more about the individual products, so feel free to click on them and learn more! (I am also not sponsored by any of the brands included in this post)